Coming Clean
After a couple of nights at the traditional ryokan, where we all slept on futon mattresses on the floor, I can tell you a few things. One of my children grinds her teeth every time she shifts positions. Another cannot abide by going to bed on the early side (this actually afflicts most of us, but the time difference has certainly thrown me off my late-night game). And I can say with absolute certainty that this sleeping arrangement was not created with jet-lagged, middle-aged ladies who need a hip replacement in mind. So while I was sad to leave the island of Miyajima behind, it was a pleasure to move into a more modern pair of adjoining rooms with actual beds in Kyoto. These rooms are actually tiny apartments, and I marvel at the efficiency we see. In the space of a large American living room we have a bed, a set of bunk beds, a kitchenette, 2 love seats, a coffee table, a shower and bath, a toilet room, sink and a washer. The Japanese take their bathrooms seriously, with soaking...