Rome is Burning (Sunday, October 16, 2011)


Carsten, Louise, and their 4 children flew in last night, getting here later than expected because of some protests in the city. They had to take a shuttle from the airport to the train station, then take a train from Rome to the outside town, Zagarolo, where we are staying. The shuttle to the train station took much longer than expected, because there were protests in Rome, with police everywhere and some cars burning in the streets.

We saw them this morning at breakfast after a long night’s sleep. Their new baby, Emil, is just adorable! He’s round and fat-cheeked and very good-natured. He also has 4 mothers, as sisters Sidsel (14), Anne (13) and Line (8) take over when they can. Who could be crabby with all that love?

The place we are staying this time, Olive Tree Hill, is a small olive grove with a bed and breakfast complex. The hosts, Ivano and Terhi, live in a house on the grounds, they have another building across the place where the rooms and common room are, and then they have what they call a chalet, a little cottage that we are renting. It has a nice master bedroom, one bath, and a living area with a small wall of kitchen, a table and chairs, and a double bed. It also apparently usually has a sofa or something that has been replaced with a twin cot. So our kids are definitely filling the room, but it’s all we need. The high points for them are the front porch, the acre+ of trees, and the 10 cats and 1 dog that lounge around the property. Perfect for us, because after all the city touring, they need some space to move around.

Ivano and Terhi are very kind, making sure we have what we need and shuttling any of their guests to the train station to make the short trek into Rome. Ivano also mentioned that he’d like to give us a briefing about seeing the area. Briefing may not be quite the correct word, as he passionately gave his views about the best and worst of touring Rome for more than an hour. But he gave us good advice.

Today we took a walk around ancient Rome. We toured the Trajan Market, which has been many things over history—a market, a public gathering place, government seat, temple, convent and military barracks. Some of it is still being excavated, but the main portion is used as a museum, and the structures hum with history. At the time we visited, they were taking down a design exhibit, so there were boxes everywhere and several of the little rooms served as frames for some sort of modern furniture design.

The whole motley crew.
We saw the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, and several other arches, pillars and monuments. Being Sunday, the main roads around those sites were closed, so we were able to walk freely without dodging the traffic the entire time. The morning had been very chilly, so we dressed in lots of layers and jeans, while our friends showed up in capris and short sleeves over tank tops. Thought they were crazy. Then it started to heat up. Natalie and I were stuck in long sleeves and jeans, while the other girls were running around in capris and tank tops. Major misstep. So we fixed it all be getting gelato, again, this time Natalie and I trying to channel Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. Tomorrow we will wear cooler clothing!

The aftereffects of the protest last night were not pronounced, but we did see one burned-out car. Our hosts mentioned that they feel like the government likes to publicize any sort of violence, because most protests are peaceful and sincere, and the violence of certain parties diminishes the impact.

The train back to Zagarolo was quite full, but it was pretty quick, and Ivano and Terhi were there to drive us back upon arrival. What a lot of driving they must do! And we are so glad, because it makes it so easy to get to Rome.

Just before we left Rome we bought a bunch of groceries, and we went back to the house that Ivano had arranged for Carsten and Louise when they decided to meet us in Rome. It is perfect for our large group gathering. We made 2 kinds of pasta and a salad, and after eating, the kids communed with the television. Together, these children have watched television in English in both America and Denmark, Danish in Denmark, and now they are watching American shows in Italian. It’s such a multicultural bonding experience. At least, it gives them some common ground. It seems “Spongebob Squarepants” is funny in any language, whether Spongebob is yelling “Arrivadercci!” or if he is called “Svampebob Fiercant”—my newest addition to my very tiny Danish vocabulary. I’m not even sure if I’m spelling it right, but anyway.

It’s so good to catch up with them, and fun to see the youngest girls take up with each other as if they’ve been best friends all their lives.

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